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Agra is the city that the Taj Mahal calls home. I spent Christmas day in Agra. It was a nice day. I have no complaints, but Agra itself isn't anything to write about, so that's all I'm going to say. Sorry Agra, you have no one to blame but yourself.

The Taj Mahal, on the other hand, is worthy of all the hype. C'est magnifique!

Here's the history (short version):

The Taj Mahal was built by the Muslim Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. She died giving birth to their 14th child at the age of 39.

I think it was exhaustion.

Heartbroken, he began construction soon after her death. It took about about 20 years to complete and was finished in 1648. Today it is considered one of the world's architectural marvels and made the recently compiled New Seven Wonders of the World.

My original plan was to get up early to see it at sunrise to avoid the crowds and get the good light. Unfortunately, after dragging myself out of bed, getting dressed and walking outside, I discovered a completely overcast sky. I wasted no time getting back to bed.

The clouds disappeared by late morning (at least that's when I ventured out again) so I stood in a long line to join thousands of tourists, mostly Indian, to catch the Taj in the afternoon light. The Taj Mahal is by far the most expensive place I've visited in India at 750 rupees or about $21. In India, as in many developing countries, there are tourist prices and local prices. I have no problem with this, but it's funny how much I've adjusted psychologically to how much things cost here. I rarely make the conversion to dollars anymore and I remember thinking, oh my god, 750 rupees, that's outrageous. Of course, in India it is outragous, but it's good to keep things in perspective. In case you're wondering about the Indian price: 10 rupees or $.25.

Here it is:

From the mosque that flanks the Taj:

The most beautiful and intricate carvings and tile work is in the room at the center of the Taj Mahal. This is where you can view the cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal. Their actual graves are in a room below, but it is off limits. Photography is prohibited in the main chamber (although this seems to have interpreted as optional by many) so I only have these details from just outside:

It was a lovely day and I spent a few very happy hours visiting the Taj. It also brought an unexpected pleasure: you have to remove your shoes. I was wearing sandals so my bare feet got to travel over the cool, white marble polished smooth by the feet of millions. I don't know why I like it so much. Perhaps it brought back childhood's sense of adventure or perhaps it made it more intimate or both or who knows.

When Shah Jahan fell ill in later years, his son seized the throne and placed his father under house arrest in Agra Fort. It still stands and is also a major tourist attraction:

Of course house arrest meant more like palace arrest:

And so Shah Jahan lived out his days in Agra Fort with this view of his precious Taj: